Alternative Friction Wheel and Lid Spring

by Dennis Spinks

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Alternative Friction Wheel
I cut a short piece of inner tube of slightly smaller diameter than the drive spool, and roughed up the inside surface and the spool surface for gluing.  Then I applied a little contact glue, stretching the inner tube by using a pointed skewer and rolling it under the surface.  Even it out by going around twice and applying a little glue on the second turn.

Glue around each edge seals it well.  In each organ only just enough spring is required to engage the clutch, giving great torque, far more than is needed.

This modification has been working well on my Busker for 3 years, and my Senior for 2 years with no problems, so I have applied this to my John Smith Universal 26 as well.

It is possible to build up the drive spool tyre by adding 3 or 4 layers of inner tube, to speed up the drive.  After 8 years, mine still works well.

Photos also show drive tyre and con-rod made using number 6 aluminium knitting needles, secured into hardwood tops for the crankshaft.  These rods are strong so can be gently bent to form the necessary shape required in the front rod.

Roll guides also made from these grey knitting needles cut to size.  Be careful not to chip the smooth coating.  I cannot see any wear yet.

Lid Spring
These pictures show a small spring positioned between the lid stay and the pressure box, mounted on a short screw (not fully tightened) so that the spring can travel free as the hinge opens.  As the stay reaches its extended position, the spring makes it click into the fully open locked position.  The spring sits in a small slot, made with a small file.

Just touch the middle of the stay to close the lid.  I did this to stop the lid from dropping down when rewinding rolls.  No problem now.

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