Only a brief mention is made in the Busker plans about the music roll hook
in the take-up spool, and no constructional details are given. They
just say to make it out of a piece of metal fixed on with a self-tapping
screw. I didn't understand this at all, because the hook has to be
completely recessed inside the spool, and nothing can be screwed to the
drainpipe. The video doesn't show it either. This is how I made
I used two small offcuts of MDF, one to go behind the 5/8" hole in the spool,
and the other one to act as an internal support. The piece behind the
hole is about 1 3/8" square and a small panel pin is fixed at the centre
so that the head sits just below the surface of the roller. The panel
pin must have a small head on it, to retain the music roll tab. Make
the support piece so that the whole is a reasonably tight fit inside the
tube. You will obviously need to drill a hole in the centre of the
support piece for the shaft to pass through. I Araldited the whole
assembly inside the tube to ensure that it didn't slip round. This
assembly can be seen in the centre of the photograph below, which shows all
my take-up spool components.
In operation, the panel pin works very well in providing a secure hook to
wind the paper onto the spool, and also releases it instantly during rewinding.
The above photo shows the components I used to fix the take-up spool neatly
onto the shaft, without having to drill unsightly holes in the surface of
the spool. I used a pair of M10 bolts and drilled 6mm holes through
their centres for the central shaft to pass through. I drilled 10mm
holes through the centre of the end cheeks, passed the bolts through, and
secured them with nuts and washers.
All the circular parts can be easily cut out using my
To fix the whole assembly onto the shaft I drilled and tapped the heads of
the bolts to take M3 set screws. There is no need to file flats or
dimples on the shaft, as these set screws can be tightened much tighter than
wood screws. There was also no need to glue the end cheeks into the
drainpipe, as both cheeks are fixed onto the shaft and the whole thing is
held together by friction.
This same method can be used to fix the drive wheel onto the end of the shaft.
It is worth mentioning that some cheap nuts are not threaded accurately
along their axis, so they 'wobble' as they rotate. Either select the
nuts carefully, or true them up on the lathe.
Completed Take-Up Spool and Drive Wheel
|One thing that is not mentioned in the plans is that the inside
edge of the spool end cheeks should be chamfered in order to help guide the
paper onto the take-up spool.
It is very difficult to cut the 'drainpipe' cylinder accurately and to get
the ends square. If you don't get the ends absolutely square the end
cheeks will wobble as the spool rotates. Apart from looking bad, this
wiill also rub on the edges of the paper. My method of fixing
the spool avoids this problem. The end cheeks are fixed perpendicular to
the shaft, however badly the cylinder is cut. If the cylinder ends are not
true, there will just be a small gap between the drainpipe and the end cheek,
but that won't matter.
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